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The Grill Is Gone

Zim's, the chain of San Francisco burger joints founded by a hungry GI who daydreamed of hamburgers and milk shakes during World War II, is no more.

The chain once numbered 25 restaurants, but beset by fast food giants and the city's changing palate, it quietly closed its last imitation van cleef and arpels butterfly necklace three sites last week.

"I was so angry and hurt," said , a Zim's waitress for 21 years, after the doors of the restaurant at 3490 California Street were closed and locked by the owner last week without a word to employees. "They never even told us they were sorry."

For 48 years, a Zimburger represented something more than a fast food burger in a sack. It was bigger, leaner and hotter. With it, according to owner , came "a slice of genuine Bermuda onion, a high quality bun and a very thick slice of tomato." Fast food joints, said Zimmerman, did the chain in.

"To have a Zimburger, fries and a Coke, you're talking eight bucks," said Zimmerman with a sigh. "At McDonald's or Burger King, it's about $3."

Zim's was founded in 1947 by Zimmerman's father, Art, who returned home from World War II determined to get the taste of K rations out of his mouth. The menu at the first Zim's at Steiner and Lombard streets featured all the stuff Art Zimmerman could not find in the mess line broiled cheese

burgers without filler and milk shakes made from ice cream instead of ice milk.

The senior Zimmerman said he ground the meat for the first Zimburger himself because his mother did not trust the butcher and insisted on seeing the meat before it became hamburger. It was a policy that continued until the end, he said yesterday.

CHAIN GREW QUICKLY

Before long, the orange Zim's marquee was everyplace. There were Zim's restaurants on a dozen San Francisco street corners. There were Zim's in Sacramento, Yuba City, Hayward, Woodside and in several locations in Marin County.

At Market Street and Van Ness Avenue, Zim's was open replica van cleef and arpel clover necklace around the clock. In the early morning hours, hookers, cabbies and cops often dined at adjacent tables. The cabbies and cops ate for half price, according to restaurant policy, but the hookers paid full rate.

The restaurant's slogan was "Zim's Where Else?" and there hardly seemed to be anywhere else without a Zim's.

SLOW ECONOMY HURT

According to Zimmerman, who took over the chain from his father during the 1980s, the economy went south and diners' tastes went to other points on the compass.

"In tough economic times, people's standards of quality have a tendency to diminish," he said. "People are willing to trade quality for other things."

A strike in 1978 and the watch your cholesterol gurus did not help, either. By 1992, Zim's was in Chapter 11. Over the summer, Zimmerman said, he realized the chain would have to close.

"It's like losing a child," the senior Zimmerman said yesterday, reflecting on the closing. "I started the business from nothing, and I'm sorry to see it go.

"I wish to God we could have kept going. But I can't complain. Friday, without prior word. About 100 were laid off.

"They came in, took the money out of the register, locked the door, and that was it," said a Zim's veteran.

No warning was given, said Steve Zimmerman, in order to avoid pilferage.

About 30 employees reopened the California street restaurant yesterday under a new name. The new Seva Restaurant, named for a Hindu god, features a melting pot menu of Zim's dishes and Thai cuisine. The menu cover features a dramatic, full color picture of the "god of destruction and reproduction."

A Zimburger is now a Seva burger. It still costs $4.49, but now fries are included.

"It's one way we can say thank you to the American people," said manager , a native of Thailand.

Asvakovith, who printed the new menus on the presses of his Buddhist temple in Millbrae, said he is a strict vegetarian who believes that Seva will understand having a hamburger named for him.

"This is a business," Asvakovith said, "so we must have an exception. We must learn to live together in this world, vegetarians and nonvegetarians."

Asvakovith was a Zim's waiter for 12 years. His partner, , was a Zim's manager for 12 years. Both men said that opening a restaurant in San Francisco, copy van cleef and arpels necklaces a town with a notoriously fickle palate, is a gamble.

The Wall

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