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In the current Panerai collection, the Luminor Due Luna with its 38mm case is the smallest model on offer. Apparently, though, that wasn’t small enough. But instead of just making the Luminor Due even smaller, Panerai opted for a different approach. We know this because the spec sheet of the Luminor Tre PAM0401 says that the 31mm watch is water resistant to 300 meters, just like a “real” Luminor. Also, the dial opening is very real. It might be small, but it does have the famous sandwich construction, and that makes all the difference. There’s no glimmering mother-of-pearl this time but a sober, matte, instrumental dial that, however tiny, looks timeless and offers proven functionality.
The Panerai Luminor Tre reestablishes the Rolex connection
What’s the biggest news? Is it the size of the watch, its impressive water resistance, or maybe something else? If you guessed the third option, you’re right. Yes, the new Luminor Tre reconnects Panerai with Rolex. Let’s not forget that in the early days of Panerai, Rolex made the cases for the Florence-based company and outfitted them with Cortébert pocket watch movements. This time, Panerai didn’t ask the famous Genevan brand to make the case but the movements instead. And that’s why inside the case of the Luminor Tre you will find the Rolex caliber 2236. That’s the movement in the 28mm Lady-Datejust, an automatic Superlative Chronometer caliber with Rolex’s patented silicon Syloxi balance spring. This movement, of course, has a central seconds hand, and the Luminor Tre doesn’t. On the spec sheet, it says that Panerai made an in-house small seconds module. The reason is obvious: the brand wanted to stay true to the iconic looks of the classic Luminor.
What do you think? Is this the small yet tough, historically correct, and important Panerai watch that the world has been waiting for? We can’t wait for Watches and Wonders 2024 to touch and feel the Panerai Luminor Tre PAM0401 in the metal. Do you feel the same? Please leave your thoughts in the comments below, but before you do, I will give you some last food for thought. When you look at the new Luminor Tre, Panerai needs you to remember that “you don’t have to like it, you just have to do it!”
With the Radiomir Quaranta in Goldtech, not only are we (happily) seeing the new smaller 40mm size – ‘Quaranta’ meaning forty in Italian – for the tradition collection but with the case in Panerai’s patented Goldtech material, it offers something strikingly different.
Eight decades ago, when the Radiomir was launched, it was a large 47mm case, due to its key requirement for legibility. Now, with the advancement of design (and more aesthetic purpose) the 40mm case size defines the collection’s essence, making a contemporary version of the icon.
Inspired by Ref 3646 from the Panerai archives, the new Radiomir California is the first time ever that a California dial is crafted in 45mm. The case is set in Brunito eSteel™, another first for the brand, this watch appeals to watch connoisseurs in search of authenticity and storied timepieces with its green dial making the watch a collector worthy piece.
Paying homage to the original Radiomir and its enduring legacy in shaping Panerai interpretations, the Radiomir Otto Giorni models featue strong vintage aesthetics. Inspired by the 1935 prototype conceived for the need for excellent readibility in often murky waters, these new Radiomirs continue this legacy and are hand-finished with an eSteel™ case giving each watch a unique character, paired with defining elements of the original Radiomir created for the Royal Italian Navy: cushion-shaped case, slim wire lugs, and signature sandwich dial.
The most contemporary and versatile of the Radiomir interpretations, the new Radiomir Quaranta now comes in Panerai Goldtech™, expressing the spirit of its original precision through its continuing innovative pursuits. The intense red appearance of the Goldtech™ material is matched with a white sun-brushed dial and a matt brown alligator strap, it exudes understated and relaxed luxury to match modern lifestyle.
Founded in Florence in 1860 as a workshop, shop and subsequently school of watch- making, for many decades Panerai supplied the Italian Navy and its specialist diving corps in particular with precision instruments.
The designs developed by Panerai in that time, including the Luminor and Radiomir, were covered by the Military Secrets Act for many years and were launched on the international market only after the brand was acquired by the Richemont Group in 1997.
Today Panerai develops and crafts its movements and watches at its Neuchâtel manufacture. The latter are a seamless melding of Italian design flair and history with Swiss horological expertise. Panerai watches are sold across the world through an exclusive network of distributors and Panerai boutiques.
In 1996, Officine Panerai leaped into the commercial watch market in 1992, launching three collections of ten references in limited editions - the 44 mm Luminor and Luminor Marina watches and the 42 mm Mare Nostrum chronograph, which were presented on 10 September 1993 at the La Spezia military harbor in the presence of Duke Amedeo D’Aosta, son of Sir Aimone di Savoia, the then supreme head of the Italian diving department. Radiomir was only made public in 1997 when the Vendome Group – today Richemont Group - acquired Panerai, introducing the first Vendome special edition in sixty pieces - the PAM 21 model in a platinum version.
The acquisition advanced Panerai’s history into contemporary developments from the reopening of the historic boutique in Piazza San Giovanni to the establishment of the Panerai Manufacture in Neuchatel where fine Swiss watchmaking meet innovation driven by an Italian soul. With a century of innovative instruments developed for performance in response to evolving technical needs, Panerai projects into the future via research, strategic partnerships, sustainability, and empowering modern heroes.
These initiatives include eSteel?, a next-generation metal obtained from pre-consumer recycled steel scraps (up to 95%) coming from different industries, preferably from Swiss watchmaking industry, whose production significantly reduces CO2 emissions, and a partnership with the IOC-UNESCO to develop solutions with the aim of building a more sustainable, equitable society.
An absolute homage to the original Radiomir and its enduring legacy in shaping modern Panerai interpretations, the new Radiomir Otto Giorni references feature strong vintage aesthetics that expounds on its retro spirit. Showcasing a characteristic antiquated look, it is inspired by the very first Radiomir prototype in 1935 which measured 47mm in diameter. The 1935 model’s entirely new dimensions of its time and design were conceived by the need for excellent readability in often murky waters near military ports. Its robustness, water resistance, and ease of reading sealed it as the sought-after instrument across different military units for various missions. To fulfil the ever-demanding military requirements, the Panerai family continuously improved on the original model introducing elements that include the now iconic sandwich dial to make the hour markers and numerals even more legible and luminescent.
The new Radiomir Otto Giorni continues this legacy accentuating its appeal to watch connoisseurs in search of authenticity and storied timepieces. Every Radiomir Otto Giorni eSteel? case is hand-finished one by one to create a seasoned look, giving each watch a unique character. The intently weathered effect of the eSteel? case, created via PVD (Physical Vapor Deposition), is paired with defining elements of the original Radiomir created for the Royal Italian Navy - cushion-shaped case, slim wire lugs, and signature sandwich dial. The Super-LumiNova? dial features a small seconds display at 9 o’clock, the case has an open back, and the sapphire glass crystal is domed, reminiscent of the Plexiglass? crystal of the past. The watch also has a cone-shaped crown, a design that distinguishes the Radiomir collection from other Panerai timepieces.
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