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An Open Letter To My Neighbor Mary

Ah Mary, I thought I had you another compost convert. You wandered over just as I'd slathered the yard with a thick, delicious layer of compost. "It smells so good back here, like fresh earth," you said. Then you crushed my heart and destroyed my dreams by saying, "I'm afraid of composting it's germy and smelly."

No, Mary, no. It's not germy, it's not smelly. (Well, not usually, but more on that later.) Don't fear composting, Mary. Embrace it. Get into it. Compost is the only thing that's going to make our crappy clay soil come alive.

If we took a 6 inch core sample of the soil in our backyards, it would come up one uniform color and one uniform texture; a solid packed mass. But that's not what soil is supposed to look like, Mary. Soil isn't supposed to be a lifeless, hard packed brick you could break my bedroom window with. It's supposed to be soft, crumbly and alive.

Adding compost will slowly break down our clay soil. Compost is a black, nutritious, soil like substance made from decomposed yard debris and kitchen waste. It's packed with all the nutrients plants need. It's a perfectly balanced fertilizer that releases nutrients when the plant needs them rather than flooding them with minerals the way liquid fertilizer does.

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The bits and nuggets of your compost will penetrate the dense soil, changing its texture to a friable (crumbly) one that roots can easily move through and seeds can sprout from. And it will create minute cavities in the soil for water and air to move through freely. Your plants will no longer be stuck in a soggy, oxygen less puddle.

As for our friends out in the Richmond or Sunset districts with their sandy soils, well, compost is just what they need, too. Organic matter holds water microscopic bits of leaf, bark or a root will get wet and stay wet. Sandy soils won't. The sand granules are too large and water slips right on through.

Since adding organic matter to sandy soil naturally improves its ability to hold water, our pals near the beach will water less and their plants will have better access to nutrients. (Plants nourish themselves by pulling in nutrient rich water. But the water can only be nutrient rich if the soil is.)

A compost bin burial is a far more dignified end for your kitchen scraps than the landfill. Those scraps are packed with valuable nutrients; use them to feed your plants. Today's vegetables nourish next year's crop. The wheel of life is turning in the compost pile, Mary.

One thing you ought to know before you get started and I presume you're going to get started is that this isn't instant. I've worked my garden's soil with compost for three years and it was only this spring that I found my first earthworm. (Earthworm's are the canary in the coal mine of soil. They're an indicator of good soil health).

One other thing you ought to know before you get started is homemade compost is far more nutritious than any store bought version. And this is not a moment. You can see the difference with your naked eye.

Compost is simple to make and there's nothing to fear. Try it for six months and if you still have qualms about it, scrape the whole pile into a trash bag and have it hauled to the dump. At least you'll have tried it and chances are you'll love it.

Mary, this is just between us, because I get paid to teach people how to compost correctly and if they only knew what a scofflaw I was, I'd be in trouble but this year I did nothing to my pile. I didn't turn it, didn't keep it moist, didn't cover it in the rain, didn't even bother to chop anything up. I just hurled my kitchen garbage and ran. And, you know what? imitation cartier gold ring I got postcard perfect compost. It's just that easy.

But because you're a beginner and this should be a good experience, let's follow the rules first time around. The goal in composting is to create a hospitable environment in your compost bin for the microbes and insects who do the decaying. Fortunately, their needs are humble: food, water and air.

1. You need to choose a bin. This could be anything from a fancy $150 store bought bin, down to four flats you lift from a dumpster and rope together to form a compost corral.

2. Mix browns (carbon heavy, dry, woody materials branches, bark, fallen leaves) with greens (nitrogen rich, moist, green materials lawn clippings, fruit and vegetable scraps). Ideally, you should have equal amounts of brown and green materials. But that's nearly impossible to do. We don't generate waste in nice tidy proportions, so toss in whatever you have whenever you have it. Note that too many browns may retard the composting process while too many greens may lead to a smelly pile. If you're pile stinks, turn it over to get some oxygen moving through it.

3. If you want your pile to break down quicker, chop up all materials as small as your attention span will allow. The smaller the matter, the quicker it decomposes.

4. Give it air. Whether it smells or not, turning your pile over with a shovel or pitchfork, stirring it up so the top layer makes it to the bottom and vice versa, provides a needed burst of oxygen that will accelerate decomposition.

5. Using your garden hose, keep your pile as moist as a wrung out sponge. A dry pile takes a long time to decompose, while too much moisture will cause your pile to go anaerobic, also slowing down the process. (An anaerobic pile can get smelly, replica cartier gold ring but all you need to do is turn it over to get some oxygen in.)

Sawdust from treated woods or plywood

There's lots of composting information available online. Check out the Brooklyn Botanic Garden's excellent Web site and The Master Composter for starters. Also, "The Rodale Book of Composting" cartier replica gold ring (Rodale Press, 1992) is a great resource.

There are composting workshops and classes all over the Bay Area, and for some of us, seeing is believing. Taking a class, talking with the teacher and fellow student composters gives us the impetus to actually get started. Contact the following organizations for more information:San Francisco League of Urban Gardeners.
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