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A guide to buying watches at auction

Watches are often touted as worthy alternative investments and a timely purchase at an auction house could clock up big money in the future

Flamboyant aviator Alberto Santos Dumont was celebrating his Deutsch prize victory at Maxim's restaurant in Paris in 1904 when he complained to his friend Louis Cartier that he had struggled to check his pocket watch to time his winning flight.

The jeweller created a timepiece that allowed Santos Dumont to keep both hands on the controls a watch with leather strap worn on the wrist and the Brazilian never again took off without his personal Cartier wristwatch.

Until then, says Adrian Hailwood, watch specialist at Birmingham based auctioneers Fellows Sons, wristwatches were considered effeminate.

"The first wristwatches were worn by women as jewellery, bracelets that told the time. But Santos Dumont was a man's man, a debonair playboy who would fly his airship down the Champs lyses to visit a caf, which helped to drive the momentum for men wearing them.

"The First World War also had an effect. Being able to tell the time on your wrist rather than fumbling under layers of clothing led to the popularity of the trench watch."

The writstwatch's later associations with macho activities such as motorsport and diving added to its popularity and stratospheric pricing,replica cartier love bangle diamond.

Rolex invented the first waterproof watch in the 1920s and in 1954 introduced its iconic Submariner, which coincided with the development of scuba gear and was worn by 007 in several Bond films.

Mr Hailwood says: "In the Forties and Fifties most people would have one watch for life, often passed down from their father. They wouldn't have a complicated piece unless they needed one.

"Airline pilots would have GMT function or motor racers a chronograph out of necessity, but then people leapt on James Bond's associations with certain watches, and they wanted to be associated with that world.

"We have a term for it desk divers people who wear a Rolex Deepsea but take it off when they go to the pool."

Fellows Sons,replica cartier bangle love, as the UK's largest auctioneer of watches, last year sold around 7,000 pieces worth 3.68 million, with men's watches outperforming women's because "men love machines and a watch collection takes up less space and is easier to look after than a car collection".

The market ranges from cheap high street pieces to niche brands costing 400,000. "These watches are expensive not just because there have lots of diamonds or gold but they are complicated pieces of machinery with limited manufacture. Sometimes only half a dozen are made each year and waiting lists can be exceptionally long."

Mr Hailwood adds: "Most are bought as collectors' pieces for future investment and high end brands avoid them coming into the auction market quickly by making sure they are bought by people who appreciate them. The buyer has a meeting with the president of the company."

He has a personal passion for affordable vintage watches and says online auctions are a good way of getting a broad sweep of the "bewildering array".

"There are three reasons to buy at auction. One is a purely commercial decision to buy pre loved, in the same way you'd buy a pre owned car, so you don't have to take the initial hit on VAT and depreciation. You can get a three year old piece significantly cheaper and the reputation of the auction house means it's not a risk."

Second,replica bracelet love, people buy for investment. "Like buying a house, the market dictates what something is worth and in an international market, if the world wants it, the price will be high, and if it doesn't it won't.

"Trying to find something that people aren't excited about yet is tough and requires research; getting a feel from specialist firms about where there is a growing interest; and buying quality, the best possible example you can.

"The most exciting and interesting reason is to buy because you like something. There's pressure on a new collector to buy pieces that impress your friends but that ignores a huge swathe of the history of watchmaking.

"You don't have to just go with the big boys like Rolex and Patek. There are perfectly acceptable brands further down the food chain for relatively small amounts of money and less competition to buy them.

"Do your homework," Mr Hailwood counsels. "Buy what appeals to you." And, caveat emptor, read all the condition report, not just the top line.

"The catalogue says what it is but the condition report says what it's like. It may be a Rolex Submariner but it can be a broken one. Prices reflect their condition. Don't think, 'I've got a bargain' unless you have read the report and it's as good as you want it to be."

Mr Hailwood's tips include military watches such as the beautiful Lange navigator wristwatch made for Second World War German airmen that he sold 18 months ago. "A high precision product that's also a piece of history.

"I am a big fan of a lot of value for not a lot of money,replica used cartier love bracelet for sale, like early Seiko, which produced a very advanced product in an industrial way, or Smiths, the last big mass product totally made in England, very good quality in its heyday. You can now buy one for 200 to 300.

"There's a satisfaction of creating your own little museum and investing to bring a piece back to life. All watch specialists are amenable to being phoned a few days in advance of a sale. They're in a neutral position and will talk you through the price and condition, and offer another pair of eyes."

Lotta Lindquist Brosjo, managing director UK of Barnebys, said: "Watches remain a popular category on the. This is particularly noticeable with the types of search alerts that users have set up; we send several thousand emails on a daily basis in response to all kinds of timepiece related searches.

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