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Italian volcano tour
The archipelago consists of eight islands and is defined as a "volcanic arc", covering 600 square miles. There's volcanic activity on most of the islands, the most visual of which is the steaming and hissing fumaroles cracks in the crust. However, only Stromboli erupts, spectacularly and on a regular basis. The gentler side of volcanoes are the muddy brown thermal waters, rich in minerals; these have been harnessed on some of the islands to soothe all manner of medical ailments.
Despite the stench of sulphur and the volcanic ash filling my leaking, chewed boots, I was rewarded on the summit of Vulcano with awesome views of the islands and Etna. We walked around the entire rim, walking over the steaming fumaroles. Some visitors climbed farther down into the crater with cheap hermes tote bags guides wearing gas masks. It was an eerie sight.
Having deliberately left my swimming costume behind I was persuaded to bathe in the sulphur pools after our descent. I hired a tiny yellow bikini, two sizes too small and felt like a hippopotamus as I submerged myself in thick warm gunk that smelt like rotten eggs. For any real medicinal benefit one needs to bathe daily for a number of days. Instead the sulphur turned my jewellery black.
Midweek, when we had a free day, I took the hydrofoil to Panarea, the St Tropez of the Aeolians. The chic, whitewashed Hotel Raya, built in the Sixties, draws a glamorous crowd of European royals and politicians. The pace is gentle; there are no cars, lovely walks and Bronze Age ruins to explore. I was pleased to throw off my boots, sit on the beach and nose in the handful of gorgeous boutiques. I sipped an expensive glass of Sicilian ros in the tiny port and looked across at the magnificent and volatile Stromboli, the next challenge.
Stromboli is one of the world's most visited and accessible volcanoes. Fringed in black sand, it rises from the seabed to a height of nearly 8,000ft, of which 3,000ft are above sea level, leaving 75 per cent of its bulk submerged. The most recent major eruptions in 2007 were accompanied by a tsunami. Geologists monitor the volcano continuously; we were assured that we were entirely safe.
Equipped with helmets and packed rucksacks we set off at 5pm to climb to the summit: 10 groups of 20, each group with a qualified volcano guide. The plan was to watch the sunset against a backdrop of explosions, but our ascent was painfully slow we were over taken by faster groups on the steep, single track path and missed the psychedelic display. But it was still thrilling. Two of the four craters are active; deep rumblings are followed by rapid and spectacular displays of orange and red fireworks.
We put on extra layers against the cold and ate our sandwiches teetering on the crater edge. The darkness fell away on either side and for those with mild vertigo it was unnerving. Above us a brilliant Milky Way came and went, obscured by the smoke that belched from Stromboli's core. Below us, lights twinkled from boats on night trips and cameras flashed as the lava from the eruptions slid down the mountainside into the sea. It had taken nearly three hours to climb Stromboli but our return journey took just 40 minutes, down soft lava sand.
Next up was Etna. We stayed in Catania, close to the Chinese quarter and the thriving Fera o Luni market. The "Monday to Sunday" market peddles everything from swordfish bound tightly in string to bootleg Chanel perfume. Turi gave us a guided tour of his home city glorious decaying Baroque architecture is built on top of Roman ruins, some of which have been excavated and exposed. There are dozens of beautiful churches, each with a crumbling, ghostly monastery or convent attached. There was no time to linger Etna beckoned.
Etna is the largest, most dangerous volcano in Europe. Its credentials are impressive: 10,990ft, 300 cones, five live craters and constant eruptions. With each eruption the landscape is altered as new cones and calderas (collapsed, cauldron shaped chambers) are formed and fresh lava flows distort the landscape. In 2003, five months of activity closed Catania airport and the local population carried umbrellas and wore masks.
We reached cheap orange hermes bag the south flank of Etna by public bus; the road cuts through massive walls of ugly black lava. A cable car and then four wheel drive vehicles take visitors up to 6,500ft. Then, with a guide, we walked up to 10,000ft over an inhospitable, smouldering lunar wasteland. Barely anything lives on these grim slopes: the only signs of life were ladybirds and the odd incongruous butterfly. Webcams dot the landscape, recording activity around the clock. We stepped gingerly over a fracture just below the south crater and could feel an intense heat beneath us.
Our guide, Rosario, told us that the fracture had moved in the last few days. It was like tiptoeing over a sleeping dragon. "If you hear rumbling or feel tremors, don't run," cheap hermes bag price list he warned us. The Sicilian Volcanoes trip costs from 1,099 per person, including return flight, transfers, seven nights' accommodation in simple, two and three star hotels and apartments and five evening meals.
The tour with Exodus is available from April to October. Outside these months hydrofoils to the islands are less frequent and the weather can be very cold. In winter Etna is covered in snow and there is skiing on its slopes.
On the Exodus trip, there is a supplement of 30/25 for the Stromboli night climb and 60/50 for the Etna trip, paid locally in cash.
Exodus's local partner in Sicily is a member of the grassroots movement, Addiopizzo, established in 2004 by local businesses, consumers and private individuals who refuse to pay the "pizzo" Mafia extortion money.
Transfers are included in the Exodus package, but should you be arranging your own travel, taxis from Catania to Milazzo (the port of the Aeolians) are expensive, 160/135 one way.
Large or small lumps of lava from all three volcanoes.
Vacuum packed capers and olives.
Hand printed silk batique from Miriam Beltrami's boutique in Panarea.
Van Cleef and Arpels perfume and a Chlo shirt from the Fera o Luni market.
A recently built three star hotel with a small pool, peacefully situated in pretty gardens 10 minutes' walk from the town centre. There are airy, light bedrooms, family rooms with balconies, and a good buffet breakfast with scrambled eggs.
In the shadow of Stromboli, this modest hotel is a 15 minute walk from the port. Most rooms have terraces and some are set up for families. A simple breakfast is served on the shady terrace.
An excellent three star b in a grand, 18th century building, centrally situated just off the busy Via Enta, close to the bustling Chinese quarter and the Fera o Luni market, with friendly service and comfortable, quiet rooms.
Trattoria a Sfiziusa, Lipari
In the old port, just off the pretty Piazza di Marina Corta, this family run restaurant offers traditional Sicilian dishes such as spaghetti alla sfiziusa, with capers, anchovies, olives cheap hermes garden bag and parsley, and stuffed squid (09 0981 1216).
The archipelago consists of eight islands and is defined as a "volcanic arc", covering 600 square miles. There's volcanic activity on most of the islands, the most visual of which is the steaming and hissing fumaroles cracks in the crust. However, only Stromboli erupts, spectacularly and on a regular basis. The gentler side of volcanoes are the muddy brown thermal waters, rich in minerals; these have been harnessed on some of the islands to soothe all manner of medical ailments.
Despite the stench of sulphur and the volcanic ash filling my leaking, chewed boots, I was rewarded on the summit of Vulcano with awesome views of the islands and Etna. We walked around the entire rim, walking over the steaming fumaroles. Some visitors climbed farther down into the crater with cheap hermes tote bags guides wearing gas masks. It was an eerie sight.
Having deliberately left my swimming costume behind I was persuaded to bathe in the sulphur pools after our descent. I hired a tiny yellow bikini, two sizes too small and felt like a hippopotamus as I submerged myself in thick warm gunk that smelt like rotten eggs. For any real medicinal benefit one needs to bathe daily for a number of days. Instead the sulphur turned my jewellery black.
Midweek, when we had a free day, I took the hydrofoil to Panarea, the St Tropez of the Aeolians. The chic, whitewashed Hotel Raya, built in the Sixties, draws a glamorous crowd of European royals and politicians. The pace is gentle; there are no cars, lovely walks and Bronze Age ruins to explore. I was pleased to throw off my boots, sit on the beach and nose in the handful of gorgeous boutiques. I sipped an expensive glass of Sicilian ros in the tiny port and looked across at the magnificent and volatile Stromboli, the next challenge.
Stromboli is one of the world's most visited and accessible volcanoes. Fringed in black sand, it rises from the seabed to a height of nearly 8,000ft, of which 3,000ft are above sea level, leaving 75 per cent of its bulk submerged. The most recent major eruptions in 2007 were accompanied by a tsunami. Geologists monitor the volcano continuously; we were assured that we were entirely safe.
Equipped with helmets and packed rucksacks we set off at 5pm to climb to the summit: 10 groups of 20, each group with a qualified volcano guide. The plan was to watch the sunset against a backdrop of explosions, but our ascent was painfully slow we were over taken by faster groups on the steep, single track path and missed the psychedelic display. But it was still thrilling. Two of the four craters are active; deep rumblings are followed by rapid and spectacular displays of orange and red fireworks.
We put on extra layers against the cold and ate our sandwiches teetering on the crater edge. The darkness fell away on either side and for those with mild vertigo it was unnerving. Above us a brilliant Milky Way came and went, obscured by the smoke that belched from Stromboli's core. Below us, lights twinkled from boats on night trips and cameras flashed as the lava from the eruptions slid down the mountainside into the sea. It had taken nearly three hours to climb Stromboli but our return journey took just 40 minutes, down soft lava sand.
Next up was Etna. We stayed in Catania, close to the Chinese quarter and the thriving Fera o Luni market. The "Monday to Sunday" market peddles everything from swordfish bound tightly in string to bootleg Chanel perfume. Turi gave us a guided tour of his home city glorious decaying Baroque architecture is built on top of Roman ruins, some of which have been excavated and exposed. There are dozens of beautiful churches, each with a crumbling, ghostly monastery or convent attached. There was no time to linger Etna beckoned.
Etna is the largest, most dangerous volcano in Europe. Its credentials are impressive: 10,990ft, 300 cones, five live craters and constant eruptions. With each eruption the landscape is altered as new cones and calderas (collapsed, cauldron shaped chambers) are formed and fresh lava flows distort the landscape. In 2003, five months of activity closed Catania airport and the local population carried umbrellas and wore masks.
We reached cheap orange hermes bag the south flank of Etna by public bus; the road cuts through massive walls of ugly black lava. A cable car and then four wheel drive vehicles take visitors up to 6,500ft. Then, with a guide, we walked up to 10,000ft over an inhospitable, smouldering lunar wasteland. Barely anything lives on these grim slopes: the only signs of life were ladybirds and the odd incongruous butterfly. Webcams dot the landscape, recording activity around the clock. We stepped gingerly over a fracture just below the south crater and could feel an intense heat beneath us.
Our guide, Rosario, told us that the fracture had moved in the last few days. It was like tiptoeing over a sleeping dragon. "If you hear rumbling or feel tremors, don't run," cheap hermes bag price list he warned us. The Sicilian Volcanoes trip costs from 1,099 per person, including return flight, transfers, seven nights' accommodation in simple, two and three star hotels and apartments and five evening meals.
The tour with Exodus is available from April to October. Outside these months hydrofoils to the islands are less frequent and the weather can be very cold. In winter Etna is covered in snow and there is skiing on its slopes.
On the Exodus trip, there is a supplement of 30/25 for the Stromboli night climb and 60/50 for the Etna trip, paid locally in cash.
Exodus's local partner in Sicily is a member of the grassroots movement, Addiopizzo, established in 2004 by local businesses, consumers and private individuals who refuse to pay the "pizzo" Mafia extortion money.
Transfers are included in the Exodus package, but should you be arranging your own travel, taxis from Catania to Milazzo (the port of the Aeolians) are expensive, 160/135 one way.
Large or small lumps of lava from all three volcanoes.
Vacuum packed capers and olives.
Hand printed silk batique from Miriam Beltrami's boutique in Panarea.
Van Cleef and Arpels perfume and a Chlo shirt from the Fera o Luni market.
A recently built three star hotel with a small pool, peacefully situated in pretty gardens 10 minutes' walk from the town centre. There are airy, light bedrooms, family rooms with balconies, and a good buffet breakfast with scrambled eggs.
In the shadow of Stromboli, this modest hotel is a 15 minute walk from the port. Most rooms have terraces and some are set up for families. A simple breakfast is served on the shady terrace.
An excellent three star b in a grand, 18th century building, centrally situated just off the busy Via Enta, close to the bustling Chinese quarter and the Fera o Luni market, with friendly service and comfortable, quiet rooms.
Trattoria a Sfiziusa, Lipari
In the old port, just off the pretty Piazza di Marina Corta, this family run restaurant offers traditional Sicilian dishes such as spaghetti alla sfiziusa, with capers, anchovies, olives cheap hermes garden bag and parsley, and stuffed squid (09 0981 1216).
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