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review of blue eyed marys in west vancouver

In restaurant time, 12 years is like a dog's life a lot of restaurants have keeled over, dead, by that age.

That's how many years ago I first visited Blue Eyed Marys. A lot has changed in that time. When I went, it was on Bowen Island, sharing a funky space in a cute little house. By day, was Breakfast Cafe and by evening, it morphed into candlelit Blue Eyed Marys. Then they moved down the road into their own place.

Recently, husband and wife owners, Carol Wallace (the chef, once a sous chef at Bishop's restaurant) and Stephen Biddiscombe (front of house), moved the restaurant to West Vancouver with a ready made customer base because many of their Bowen Island patrons were from West Vancouver.

It's an older demographic for sure, in sharp contrast to the noisy, energetic dining crowds in restaurants du jour in Gastown, Downtown Eastside and Main Street.

Blue Eyed Marys dining room is cheerful and charming with robin's egg blue walls; a print of the namesake Blue Eyed Mary hangs on the wall it's a flower, not a person. Biddiscombe says some of the antique build ins came from a mansion under renovations in Shaughnessy, once home to the famous Woodward's family.

The restaurant is open for lunch and dinner and the menu offers West Coast bistro style food. Offerings are concise (three appies, five mains) but a couple of items are changed every week. Mains cost $18 to $28 when I visited.

While the restaurant is a great addition to a static West Van inventory of restaurants, the food some improvements. Some dishes sing. Some could use a plating make over. Some could imitation van cleef arpels clover necklace be cooked with more care.

The plum tomato tarte tatin with grilled asparagus and basil oil had a problem I would have eagerly chomped away except the puff pastry was undercooked and doughy and unpuffed. A smoked salmon and leek soup with red onion and caper crme fraiche was a winner with everything in very good balance. Salad with rhubarb orange vinaigrette and chili cashew praline featured fresh, crisp lettuce.

Plating can be sometimes heavy handed my halibut cheeks were delicious but some elements were piled on without form or function; the asparagus tarragon ravioli buried at the bottom was a happy discovery; a licorice root strawberry reduction and a green sauce messily circled the plate. Grilled bison flatiron steak with garlic potato croutons came with a refreshing butter lettuce salad but part of the otherwise tasty steak was extremely chewy.

Pan fried trout with quinoa was a generous dish of two large fillets atop a large mound of quinoa with almonds, cherries. Very good.

My favourite was grain crusted marmalade and mustard glazed chicken thighs over cole slaw a delicious flavourfest bordering on candied chicken.

Desserts are interesting. An espresso cake with mocha anglais caused an OMG moment. I was fake Van Cleef & Arpels Clover necklace black certain we wouldn't and shouldn't finish the multi layered lusciousness. But, OMG, we did. Pavlova with berries and buttermilk ice cream was a perfect taste of summer.

The wine list offers mid range wines chosen for the homey, affordable food.

Blue Eyed Marys. 1735 Marine Dr., West Vancouver. 604 921 2583. epaper, Digital Access, Subscriber Rewards), please input your Print Newspaper subscription phone number and postal code.

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