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Inside story of how Melbourne became marvellous all over again

It may be nearing midnight on a Saturday in Swanston Street, but is teeming not with rain, but people and tomorrow at midday, it will be teeming again. The CBD is full of people nearly all the time tourists from abroad,van cleef and arpels fake clover necklace, tourists from the burbs, and a startling number of people who haven't come from anywhere. They live here, upstairs, part of the city's beating heart. How did the city that for decades seemed in a coma become a city that never sleeps?

For starters, it was no Manhattan project is not a wannabe. Rather, a key plank of the strategy for city renewal has been not to mimic others, but to make the most of what makes different (and market the hell out of it). The numbers show it's working, beyond the hopes of even the most optimistic urban planner. As City Council's director of city design Rob Adams reels off facts and figures, the words "game changer" come up. They describe the 116,431 people now living in the CBD, and the 28,099 city residences; the 100,000 pedestrians using Swanston Street on a Saturday night; the average 840,000 people thronging the city every weekday a number that sometimes tops 1 million.

In 1994, City Council embarked on a groundbreaking study of its citizens and their city. Places for People was carried out again in 2004, and is now nearing completion for a third time giving a contemporary record and 20 year archive that only a handful of cities can boast. "Almost unique, especially in that part of the world," says Danish architect and urban design guru Jan Gehl, who pioneered Places for People in Copenhagen. was one of his first foreign experiments. Under Gehl's guidance, started watching its people closely where did they come from, how did they get here, where did they go, how did they go there, where did they linger, where did they sit and where did they stroll?

Out of this attention to the smallest details even the colour of the pavement and the awnings on the buildings the MCC now has 20 years of hard numbers data credited with underpinning all that global praise about Melboume's "liveablity".

Gehl has an oft quoted line that recasts the blandness of that ugly word. A liveable city is not a static place. It's a permanent social gathering, of shifting moods and energy, guests flowing in and out, the buzz changing but never dying. It's Gehl's mantra: "A good city is like a good party. People stay for much longer than is really necessary because they are enjoying themselves."

By this measure, Gehl considers in 2014 close to the global gold standard and that's as much a surprise to him as anybody, given what the CBD was like when he first saw it in 1976.

was a shadow of the grand dame of the 19th century on the back of a mining boom that was, literally, the city's golden age. A brief spurt of 1956 Olympic pride didn't deliver long term transformation. "We had this extraordinary city that had won the Olympic Games and then gone to sleep," McCaughey says.

There was no shortage of emerging leaders, planners and activist residents keen to wake the place up. Cain ended Labor's wilderness years in 1982, and had hopes for a city very different from the one he'd grown up next to in Northcote, at a time when anyone who didn't work in the CBD had very little to do with it. "A visit to town was a big day out." Cain's familiarity with the centre grew when he took an after school job at Myer. No one had any other reason to be there.

The notion that people might live in the CBD was thought batty. "A few that we thought were odd people lived in the lofts in hotels or some exotic accommodation like that."

McCaughey was elected as an independent to a reconstituted city council in late 1982 after years of chaos that had seen the previous MCC sacked. McCaughey had just returned from living in New York, aware of what a vital residential metropolis could be. She had two broad missions: save the heritage buildings, and bring a moribund CBD to life.

"There were only about 100 residents in the CBD. There was nobody there . what we did was say, 'We've got to enable the buildings to house people and we've got to bring the street life back."

Geoff Lawler,replica van cleef and arpels butterfly necklace, a state government expert for 17 years before joining the council in 1996, says benefited from a broadly united approach from Spring Street and town hall. "It's been a mix of state and local government." Gehl agrees this is crucial pointing to Sydney's state versus city conflict as a case study of how not to get things done. "They've been very, very slow. didn't have that."

McCaughey's praise for planning ministers she worked with, Evan Walker in particular, suggests this is true. While she didn't like Cain's "count the cranes" style, they shared a belief that antiquated licensing laws had to go and the streets opened for al fresco dining. Cain calls liquor law reform "the biggest single step in the transformation of the CBD". With pavement dining permitted and booze restrictions loosened, the city had something to build on and it did. There were 604 food and beverage outlets in the CBD in 1982; today, 1978. Even harder to imagine, there were two outdoor cafes in the CBD in the 1980s; today, 534.

But the most significant impact was the arrival in 1983 of a migrant whose planning smarts were snapped up by the MCC. Urban designer RobAdams, of Zimbabwe, found a city whose workday population seemed to be sucked out to the suburbs at 5pm as if by a giant vacuum. "It was deserted. The biggest change was realising that city's didn't have to be like that."

Adams was a believer, and he had high level support. Gehl's Places for People research delivered that element when the MCC brought him out in 1993.

Adams says such detail has enabled change in an age of tight budgets small scale and incremental. Things like building frontages and lighting influence the way people perceive streetsas places to stop,van cleef arpels alhambra imitation necklace, sit or shop and also perceptions of safety. Doyle calls it "the palette of the city" and underfoot, the city is getting durable, attractive bluestone footpaths as a result.

Gehl's research delivered "the human dimension",Lawler says. "You can look at Places for People and look at the importance of detail. And you look at the macro scale and look at the importance of urban design, economic and sustainable use of land, and transport, which is critical."

This is where critics of planning policy take issue with both the MCC and the government, whose vision of a CBD dominated by ever taller towers horrifies many. Cain calls it "very woolly". McCaughey fears we're "building an asylum", driven by greed.

Michael Buxton, RMIT's professor of environment and planning, says the reach for the sky policy violates the essence of Gehl's "human scale" philosophy of urban design. Buxton says Places for People has been invaluable. "But what tends to happen is that public bodies such as the City Council think they've done their job when they come out with a report examining the better use of public space. That's only part of the equation, as [Gehl] himself notes.

If the tower fetish continues unchecked, Buxton warns, the city we now celebrate will be ruined. "It will kill the goose."

Jeff Kennett also has mixed feelings about the dramatic changes to the CBD. "It's now becoming very quickly a city of the world with all the problems and the challenges of the cities of the world." It's less friendly, he says, and traffic congestion is fast becoming a crippling issue".

He wouldn't turn back time, but warns the city should proceed with caution as residential numbers boom. "I don't think the number of people matters so much as whether you can properly provide the infrastructure to accommodate that number or whether you can change the way the city operates."

At town hall, the drivers of CBD policy don't disagree. Lawler says rapid population growth has been "a good problem to have" but has to be carefully managed. "Now as the city grows, it's moving into areas where [infrastructure] doesn't exist. Because of the tightness of space you can't let that get out of whack."

The lord mayor, who will receive the latest People for Places report early next year, looks ahead to a city that builds on the kind of changes the research has already inspired: expanding the "tree canopy" to cover 40 per cent of the CBD,replica van cleef flower necklace, cooling the city by 5 degrees; pedestrian friendly initiatives that build on findings showing 66 per cent of journeys are made on foot; an improved bicycle network. And much else besides but Doyle says that in 10 and 20 years time, "I hope you'd still look at it and say 'Yep, that's . The essential character hasn't changed."

Adams says cities everywhere are facing major challenges over the next half century, with urban populations doubling, "You can't do that by building cities the way we built them in the past. We're going to have to do it by repurposing them, and has gone through one of the biggest repurposing exercises in the last 30 years.

"If that continues on it will set us as an example of what other cities can do."

IN HISTORY'S PAGE

TO SOME ears, modern 's much trumpeted honour "the world's most liveable city" is a bouquet so bland it doubles as a brickbat. But a backhanded compliment is no big deal. The city's heard worse things.

The Wall

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