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A Very Unique Folding Chair,replica cartier mens chain
This chair design came to me after a failed attempt at re creating a chair I had seen by Architectural Designer Robert van Embricqs. It was a very beautiful and stunning piece, but seemed to expensive to do it just the way he had. So I set out to make a less expensive version of his chair and it looked amazing, however it couldn't even hold my 95lb daughter. I was then left with about 70 pieces of 3/4" x 3/4 " wood in varying lengths. What was I going to do with all that wood?
A couple of days later, I remembered having seen a sketch of a chair in a booktitled "Nomadic Furniture" by James Hennessey and Victor Papanek called a "Savonarola Folding Throne". After a quick search on the internet for better pictures of it, I thought I figured out how it was put together. Although I have only seen them in the open chair position and never folded, I could only imagine that the following is a pretty close (albeit very simplified) approximation of how it is done.
It has been my experience with woodworking that there is never just one tool that can be used or just one way to put something together. The first couple of these chairs that I made I did with just a table saw, miter saw, tape measure, drill with a few bits and some sand paper, so most hobbyists will have the right tools for this project. Once you read through this, you will have a good idea what tools you have in your arsenal that will work for this job. Here is a list of the supplies I have come to use for making these. (The chair in this instructable is number 10 including the first two prototypes) Table saw for ripping lengths of pieces
Miter saw with attached jig the jig makes sure that every piece is exactly the same (and all without measuring)
Router with 5/16" bit and attached jig the router makes sure the holes are nice and straight and the jig makes sure the spacing on the holes are exactly the same on each piece (again, no measuring needed once you make the jig)
Drill with varying bit sizes and a 3/8" boring bit for counter sinking screws
Sander this keeps the slivers out of our tender bits
Rack for applying stain and polyurethane,replica love cartier pendant, and also for drying
Foam brushes for apply stain and poly
Safety goggles and hearing protection
Square for making sure things are squarish
Vinyl paper for spacers I'll explain these later
Hacksaw for cutting dowels to length in the finishing stages of the build Three 1"x4"x8' boards (actual dimensions 3/4"x3 1/2"x8') These should be as knot free as possible because we are using such small pieces and if the knots span the width of the piece it will be very weak there (I am using pine for this build, but other woods work very well too, as you will see in later pictures)
Two 5/16"x3' wooden dowels
Thirty four 1" screws (something reasonably appropriate for use with wood)
Wood glue
Wood stain optional depending on type of wood used
Polyurethane again,love replica pendant, optional depending on type of wood used
The first step is to cleanly cut the ends off your boards using the miter saw. These ends are never quite square, will sometimes have grade markings on them and they are also pretty rough. You shouldn't be making a very big cut,love replica chain, just enough to tidy things up.
Now set up the fence to cut all the boards into 3/4" strips. If you get it at just 3/4" and not a hair over (assuming you have a standard blade that gives you a 1/8" kerf) you will be able to get 4 strips from each board without any waste. When you set your blade height, you want the teeth to just clear the top of the board as it comes through. This will give you a nice clean cut as well as keeping the saw from throwing a bunch of sawdust in your face as you cut.
If you've done everything right so far, you should have twelve 3/4"x3/4"x8' lengths of wood. This will actually be more than you need, but some pieces may not be desirable for this project, so you want to have a little extra. If you only ended up with nine of these and three thinner ones, do like the Hitchhiker's Guide says and DON'T PANIC because the nine pieces will be enough if you chose very carefully when you bought your wood. If you don't have any knots or there are only very small ones everything should be fine.
This chair is, for the most part, just two pieces of wood repeated 17 times. There are the longer pieces that make up the sides that are 27" long and square on both ends. Then there are the seat pieces, which are square on one end and cut at a 40 angle on the other end. The short side of this piece is 15" and the long side of this piece is 15 11/16".
The most efficient way of cutting these pieces is to cut two side pieces and two seat pieces from each length. When you're cutting these you want to be aware of a couple of things. First of all, you don't want any potential structural failures due to weaknesses in the wood, so watch out for splits and large knots. Cut your pieces from either side of these types of imperfections. If you cut two long pieces and two short pieces from each length, you will have about 10" or so of scrap left over, so if you have to cut a knot or split out of the middle of your length, you will still have enough to get your four pieces. Don't forget that you also have a few extra lengths to use too, so don't be too stingy and use inadequate pieces.
This chair design came to me after a failed attempt at re creating a chair I had seen by Architectural Designer Robert van Embricqs. It was a very beautiful and stunning piece, but seemed to expensive to do it just the way he had. So I set out to make a less expensive version of his chair and it looked amazing, however it couldn't even hold my 95lb daughter. I was then left with about 70 pieces of 3/4" x 3/4 " wood in varying lengths. What was I going to do with all that wood?
A couple of days later, I remembered having seen a sketch of a chair in a booktitled "Nomadic Furniture" by James Hennessey and Victor Papanek called a "Savonarola Folding Throne". After a quick search on the internet for better pictures of it, I thought I figured out how it was put together. Although I have only seen them in the open chair position and never folded, I could only imagine that the following is a pretty close (albeit very simplified) approximation of how it is done.
It has been my experience with woodworking that there is never just one tool that can be used or just one way to put something together. The first couple of these chairs that I made I did with just a table saw, miter saw, tape measure, drill with a few bits and some sand paper, so most hobbyists will have the right tools for this project. Once you read through this, you will have a good idea what tools you have in your arsenal that will work for this job. Here is a list of the supplies I have come to use for making these. (The chair in this instructable is number 10 including the first two prototypes) Table saw for ripping lengths of pieces
Miter saw with attached jig the jig makes sure that every piece is exactly the same (and all without measuring)
Router with 5/16" bit and attached jig the router makes sure the holes are nice and straight and the jig makes sure the spacing on the holes are exactly the same on each piece (again, no measuring needed once you make the jig)
Drill with varying bit sizes and a 3/8" boring bit for counter sinking screws
Sander this keeps the slivers out of our tender bits
Rack for applying stain and polyurethane,replica love cartier pendant, and also for drying
Foam brushes for apply stain and poly
Safety goggles and hearing protection
Square for making sure things are squarish
Vinyl paper for spacers I'll explain these later
Hacksaw for cutting dowels to length in the finishing stages of the build Three 1"x4"x8' boards (actual dimensions 3/4"x3 1/2"x8') These should be as knot free as possible because we are using such small pieces and if the knots span the width of the piece it will be very weak there (I am using pine for this build, but other woods work very well too, as you will see in later pictures)
Two 5/16"x3' wooden dowels
Thirty four 1" screws (something reasonably appropriate for use with wood)
Wood glue
Wood stain optional depending on type of wood used
Polyurethane again,love replica pendant, optional depending on type of wood used
The first step is to cleanly cut the ends off your boards using the miter saw. These ends are never quite square, will sometimes have grade markings on them and they are also pretty rough. You shouldn't be making a very big cut,love replica chain, just enough to tidy things up.
Now set up the fence to cut all the boards into 3/4" strips. If you get it at just 3/4" and not a hair over (assuming you have a standard blade that gives you a 1/8" kerf) you will be able to get 4 strips from each board without any waste. When you set your blade height, you want the teeth to just clear the top of the board as it comes through. This will give you a nice clean cut as well as keeping the saw from throwing a bunch of sawdust in your face as you cut.
If you've done everything right so far, you should have twelve 3/4"x3/4"x8' lengths of wood. This will actually be more than you need, but some pieces may not be desirable for this project, so you want to have a little extra. If you only ended up with nine of these and three thinner ones, do like the Hitchhiker's Guide says and DON'T PANIC because the nine pieces will be enough if you chose very carefully when you bought your wood. If you don't have any knots or there are only very small ones everything should be fine.
This chair is, for the most part, just two pieces of wood repeated 17 times. There are the longer pieces that make up the sides that are 27" long and square on both ends. Then there are the seat pieces, which are square on one end and cut at a 40 angle on the other end. The short side of this piece is 15" and the long side of this piece is 15 11/16".
The most efficient way of cutting these pieces is to cut two side pieces and two seat pieces from each length. When you're cutting these you want to be aware of a couple of things. First of all, you don't want any potential structural failures due to weaknesses in the wood, so watch out for splits and large knots. Cut your pieces from either side of these types of imperfections. If you cut two long pieces and two short pieces from each length, you will have about 10" or so of scrap left over, so if you have to cut a knot or split out of the middle of your length, you will still have enough to get your four pieces. Don't forget that you also have a few extra lengths to use too, so don't be too stingy and use inadequate pieces.
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