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Rose Gold Is in Vogue Again
PARIS An expansive rose opening its pink petals is high jewelry's answer to luxe in a cool climate.
The message "Think pink!" applies not just to the classic flower in all its romantic beauty but also to the favored color for gemstones and their settings.
Rose gold is a significant story at the Biennale des Antiquaires this year, which opened at the Grand Palais in Paris on Friday and will run until Sunday. The selection from leading jewelers and watchmakers blushes with a soft pink tone, in contrast to the sharp whiteness of the bling bling era: Could it be a nod to France's newly installed president, Franois Hollande the rose being the symbol of his Socialist Party?
Jewelry designers often make references to the undulating lines of haute couture and the flow of fabric and ribbons. And it does seem more likely that fashion is behind this fervor to present collections with sunrise hues.
Continue reading the main story
The house poetically describes the techniques and the haute couture inspirations as "dressing the skin with diamonds." To reinforce the fashion message, the illustrator David Downton has worked his magic in gouache, acrylic paint and India ink as a backdrop to the Piaget stand, showing jewelry inspired by lace, mesh and embroidery.
"Femininity and softness," says Jean Bernard Forot, Piaget's jewelry director, to explain the move toward pink and red golds, as well as stones that include pink tones: sapphires, rubellites and the increasingly rare spinels.
"There is also the alliance between jewels and flowers, especially roses,replica rolex mens oyster perpetual datejust," says Mr. Forot, noting that since the early 20th century,replica rolex oyster perpetual datejust mens, gold jewelry has swung between white gold, alloyed with platinum or palladium, and the coppery pink.
At Boucheron, too, the house's new designer, Claire Choisne, is tracing a route mapped by Frdric Boucheron, who used rose gold in 1880 and whose jewelry was inspired by clothing not least after Czar Nicolas II ordered a necklace to mimic the scarf dropped at a ball by a captivating young princess.
"Rose gold disappears against the skin, is more discreet than yellow or white gold,rolex perpetual datejust replica, brings warmth to the creation and marries well with colored stones," says Ms. Choisne, whose Delilah necklace and earrings, with a mosaic effect, are made entirely in rose gold. That base gives a floating effect to the orange, yellow and pink sapphires.
Van Cleef Arpels, which will stage a retrospective show beginning Thursday at the Paris Muse des Arts Dcoratifs, plans to display some of its most iconic pieces: a 1937 peony clip in rubies and diamonds set in platinum and a 1939 bracelet set with rubies. Both are made with the famous technique of "serti mystrieux, " in which the stones appear to float without a frame.
But Van Cleef has also created some modern wonders, offering a technically brilliant "fashion" necklace replicating an opening zipper.
If pink gold is an international phenomenon, how did it happen?
Tiffany of New York was in early on the revival of pink gold and continues to focus on its blushing surface for the end of year holiday season, remaking as pendants antique keys from its archives that once locked diaries, jewel boxes and salons in country manors.
"The luxury consumer wants gold that looks, as well as feels, like gold, which has added velocity to the move toward yellow and, increasingly, the pink palette," Mr. Lamb said.
But imaginative jewelers have also led the way, he added, citing Angelina Jolie at the 2004 Oscars in a "standout H. Stern noble gold and diamond necklace." He also pointed to Bulgari's reintroduction of its iconic Serpenti watches, with their serpentlike bracelet, which prominently featured a rose gold version.
Mr. Lamb says that luxury consumers now desire more personal and custom jewelry and rose gold offers the opportunity for "another choice, something that signals individuality, selection and personal taste."
Ultimately, it is the subtle use of blush pink by high jewelers that is winning over customers.
At Dior, the designer Victoire de Castellane has a penchant for femininity, using flowers in a sculptured way and creating pieces with contrasting stones rich in color. Dior's roses are shaped out of pink gold, diamonds and pink quartz.
Chanel has created some exceptional pieces exclusively for the Biennale. They include a necklace of shooting stars, in the great tradition of Coco Chanel's original work, but with rose gold giving a slightly warmer,replica datejust rolex oyster perpetual, less futuristic and space age backdrop to the diamonds.
History inevitably figures in brands with a heritage. The bee has been one of the symbols of Chaumet since its connections with Napoleon, who incorporated it into the imperial coat of arms as a symbol of immortality and resurrection, so it is not surprising that a double bee ring, the bodies made of pink opals, is part of a current pastoral tableau. It includes six jewelry pieces, embracing a watch and a slim "princess" tiara with a central, detachable bee.
Significantly, the accessible and popular "honeycomb" rings, fitting into one another and a staple of the Chaumet collection, were invented as an interface of three different shades of gold.
"I think the resurgence of rose gold has got to do more with the large French houses such as Boucheron and Cartier, who started the trinity bands which are so fashionable and fun," says Rahul Kadakia, the New York jewelry specialist at Christie's.
Mix and match golds are certainly the height of fashion. The Azuela collection from De Beers has pink, yellow, white and black gold bands, the circlets inter set with diamonds, while unusual stones like chocolate brown diamonds are used to contrast with a yellow gold bracelet.
Mr. Kadakia traces the history of rose gold to Russian jewelry, when a new color was obtained by using copper as the alloy. He says that in India, maharajahs also loved pink jewels, as in the "Benarasi" enamel crafted in Varanasi or in the Mughal pink spinels, "which were so favored that many of the rulers inscribed their names on the larger beads to show ownership."
But Indians have never warmed to pink gold, preferring 24 karat quality. Even when copper was used as an alloy, it would often be mixed with silver "to keep the color more yellow," he said.
The subject of gold's karats raises a question: Is pink gold, however pretty, a slightly inferior version of sunshine gold, used to keep down the price of the finished product?
At the high jewelry level, customers are paying for craftsmanship as much as base materials. Mr. Forot from Piaget says that the element of alloy at the very most 20 per cent copper would not dilute the quality of gold significantly. Nor can it be concealed, since the karat count is defined by the percentage of gold in the mix.
It seems that the public has warmed to rose gold and that tough times have put a premium value on gold which is why high jewelry, metaphorically and literally, is in the pink.
PARIS An expansive rose opening its pink petals is high jewelry's answer to luxe in a cool climate.
The message "Think pink!" applies not just to the classic flower in all its romantic beauty but also to the favored color for gemstones and their settings.
Rose gold is a significant story at the Biennale des Antiquaires this year, which opened at the Grand Palais in Paris on Friday and will run until Sunday. The selection from leading jewelers and watchmakers blushes with a soft pink tone, in contrast to the sharp whiteness of the bling bling era: Could it be a nod to France's newly installed president, Franois Hollande the rose being the symbol of his Socialist Party?
Jewelry designers often make references to the undulating lines of haute couture and the flow of fabric and ribbons. And it does seem more likely that fashion is behind this fervor to present collections with sunrise hues.
Continue reading the main story
The house poetically describes the techniques and the haute couture inspirations as "dressing the skin with diamonds." To reinforce the fashion message, the illustrator David Downton has worked his magic in gouache, acrylic paint and India ink as a backdrop to the Piaget stand, showing jewelry inspired by lace, mesh and embroidery.
"Femininity and softness," says Jean Bernard Forot, Piaget's jewelry director, to explain the move toward pink and red golds, as well as stones that include pink tones: sapphires, rubellites and the increasingly rare spinels.
"There is also the alliance between jewels and flowers, especially roses,replica rolex mens oyster perpetual datejust," says Mr. Forot, noting that since the early 20th century,replica rolex oyster perpetual datejust mens, gold jewelry has swung between white gold, alloyed with platinum or palladium, and the coppery pink.
At Boucheron, too, the house's new designer, Claire Choisne, is tracing a route mapped by Frdric Boucheron, who used rose gold in 1880 and whose jewelry was inspired by clothing not least after Czar Nicolas II ordered a necklace to mimic the scarf dropped at a ball by a captivating young princess.
"Rose gold disappears against the skin, is more discreet than yellow or white gold,rolex perpetual datejust replica, brings warmth to the creation and marries well with colored stones," says Ms. Choisne, whose Delilah necklace and earrings, with a mosaic effect, are made entirely in rose gold. That base gives a floating effect to the orange, yellow and pink sapphires.
Van Cleef Arpels, which will stage a retrospective show beginning Thursday at the Paris Muse des Arts Dcoratifs, plans to display some of its most iconic pieces: a 1937 peony clip in rubies and diamonds set in platinum and a 1939 bracelet set with rubies. Both are made with the famous technique of "serti mystrieux, " in which the stones appear to float without a frame.
But Van Cleef has also created some modern wonders, offering a technically brilliant "fashion" necklace replicating an opening zipper.
If pink gold is an international phenomenon, how did it happen?
Tiffany of New York was in early on the revival of pink gold and continues to focus on its blushing surface for the end of year holiday season, remaking as pendants antique keys from its archives that once locked diaries, jewel boxes and salons in country manors.
"The luxury consumer wants gold that looks, as well as feels, like gold, which has added velocity to the move toward yellow and, increasingly, the pink palette," Mr. Lamb said.
But imaginative jewelers have also led the way, he added, citing Angelina Jolie at the 2004 Oscars in a "standout H. Stern noble gold and diamond necklace." He also pointed to Bulgari's reintroduction of its iconic Serpenti watches, with their serpentlike bracelet, which prominently featured a rose gold version.
Mr. Lamb says that luxury consumers now desire more personal and custom jewelry and rose gold offers the opportunity for "another choice, something that signals individuality, selection and personal taste."
Ultimately, it is the subtle use of blush pink by high jewelers that is winning over customers.
At Dior, the designer Victoire de Castellane has a penchant for femininity, using flowers in a sculptured way and creating pieces with contrasting stones rich in color. Dior's roses are shaped out of pink gold, diamonds and pink quartz.
Chanel has created some exceptional pieces exclusively for the Biennale. They include a necklace of shooting stars, in the great tradition of Coco Chanel's original work, but with rose gold giving a slightly warmer,replica datejust rolex oyster perpetual, less futuristic and space age backdrop to the diamonds.
History inevitably figures in brands with a heritage. The bee has been one of the symbols of Chaumet since its connections with Napoleon, who incorporated it into the imperial coat of arms as a symbol of immortality and resurrection, so it is not surprising that a double bee ring, the bodies made of pink opals, is part of a current pastoral tableau. It includes six jewelry pieces, embracing a watch and a slim "princess" tiara with a central, detachable bee.
Significantly, the accessible and popular "honeycomb" rings, fitting into one another and a staple of the Chaumet collection, were invented as an interface of three different shades of gold.
"I think the resurgence of rose gold has got to do more with the large French houses such as Boucheron and Cartier, who started the trinity bands which are so fashionable and fun," says Rahul Kadakia, the New York jewelry specialist at Christie's.
Mix and match golds are certainly the height of fashion. The Azuela collection from De Beers has pink, yellow, white and black gold bands, the circlets inter set with diamonds, while unusual stones like chocolate brown diamonds are used to contrast with a yellow gold bracelet.
Mr. Kadakia traces the history of rose gold to Russian jewelry, when a new color was obtained by using copper as the alloy. He says that in India, maharajahs also loved pink jewels, as in the "Benarasi" enamel crafted in Varanasi or in the Mughal pink spinels, "which were so favored that many of the rulers inscribed their names on the larger beads to show ownership."
But Indians have never warmed to pink gold, preferring 24 karat quality. Even when copper was used as an alloy, it would often be mixed with silver "to keep the color more yellow," he said.
The subject of gold's karats raises a question: Is pink gold, however pretty, a slightly inferior version of sunshine gold, used to keep down the price of the finished product?
At the high jewelry level, customers are paying for craftsmanship as much as base materials. Mr. Forot from Piaget says that the element of alloy at the very most 20 per cent copper would not dilute the quality of gold significantly. Nor can it be concealed, since the karat count is defined by the percentage of gold in the mix.
It seems that the public has warmed to rose gold and that tough times have put a premium value on gold which is why high jewelry, metaphorically and literally, is in the pink.
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