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Off The Coast Of Canada
Vive La France Off The Coast Of Canada
May 28, 1989By Ginny Turner, Special to The Sentinel
Only 12 miles off the coast of Eastern Canada lie two tiny fragments of France, where each morning gendarmes raise the tricolor, housewives walk to the bakery for fresh baguettes and laborers argue about the French soccer team.
Tucked into the shadow of Newfoundland, St. Pierre and Miquelon are the only French possessions in North America, and their 6,000 residents are fiercely proud of it. Descended from Breton, Norman and Basque seamen, most speak only French and prefer to vacation in France rather than French Canada. They don't leave the islands often,cartier bracelet yellow cheap, and the few visitors who make the effort to visit this geographical anomaly are very welcome.
St. Pierre is the France you might find in a small seaside town in Brittany. It has good food in unpretentious restaurants, and no beautiful avenues. It doesn't exude excitement or sophistication. Its boxy, brightly painted buildings, much weathered by the salt air, are reminiscent of Newfoundland architecture, and most of the town looks down on fishing boats and sailing yachts moored in the small harbor. But it has a peace that's appealing isolation has allowed the St. Pierre residents to set their own pace, and it's not a fast one (except for traffic,cartier bracelet white cheap, which is sparse, but fierce). Activity is of the everyday kind, of people going about their business and children playing after school.
Discovered by the Portuguese in 1520, the islands were claimed for France by Jacques Cartier in 1536. Because of its good harbor and proximity to excellent cod regions, St. Pierre (the town and the island) became an important fishing port and a political football. As France and England battled at intervals through the centuries, St. Pierre's sovereignty was snatched back and forth with every new treaty, until at last the 1816 Treaty of Paris stuck.
For years, the islands had a one note economy as cod fishermen steadily tapped the wealth of the Grand Banks. But unimagined riches came to St. Pierre when America's Volstead Act in 1920 made liquor sales illegal in the United States. Canada's version of prohibition allowed liquor production for export only,cartier bracelet diamond price, and vast quantities were exported to convenient St. Pierre. Then it was shipped to the United States as many as 300,000 cases a month. Virtually every islander was involved in the traffic; one home was built entirely from discarded Cutty Sark cases.
The warm, moist air from the Grand Banks frequently creates fog in St. Pierre, and as a result most visitors arrive by sea from Fortune, Newfoundland, aboard one of two seagoing ferries.
Most accommodations several pensions and two hotels are within easy walking distance from the ferry. The largest, Hotel Robert, features a collection of Prohibition memorabilia, including the hat Al Capone left at the hotel. A stay there includes an orientation by owner Jean Paul Andrieux, who gives the islands' history plus sightseeing and duty free shopping tips. Silk scarves, French wine and perfume are good buys.
A stroll around town doesn't take long, but it will reveal a variety of shops, a stone fronted cathedral, a war monument, an interesting small Museum of St. Pierre,cartier bracelet diamond fake, and a soccer field alive with schoolboys. An hourlong island tour takes you through town and beyond, through the Savoyard, an area of vacation homes less than a mile from town. Stunted vegetation covers the low rolling hills, and rock cliffs jut out at the northern end of the island.
From there, you can see Miquelon. Only 600 people live on the larger, bleaker island of Miquelon, but they boast of their sunnier weather due to more favorable winds. A daylong excursion by ferry is available to visit it.
From the square in front of Miquelon's church, you can see both ends of the few tidy streets in the village. A drive over the peaty heath takes you to Langlade, which used to be a separate island until sand settling on dozens of shipwrecks eventually created an isthmus to join the two. A band of half wild horses roam at will and idly forage on the low vegetation. Bits of shipwrecks punctuate the long expanse of beach, and sea gulls wheel over the beaches when schools of small fish called caplins are spawning in the sand.
This tiny corner of France will not appeal to those who need cities with bright lights and glamour. Those who can accept St. Pierre on its own terms, taking the time to get to know it, will discover its special charm.
Vive La France Off The Coast Of Canada
May 28, 1989By Ginny Turner, Special to The Sentinel
Only 12 miles off the coast of Eastern Canada lie two tiny fragments of France, where each morning gendarmes raise the tricolor, housewives walk to the bakery for fresh baguettes and laborers argue about the French soccer team.
Tucked into the shadow of Newfoundland, St. Pierre and Miquelon are the only French possessions in North America, and their 6,000 residents are fiercely proud of it. Descended from Breton, Norman and Basque seamen, most speak only French and prefer to vacation in France rather than French Canada. They don't leave the islands often,cartier bracelet yellow cheap, and the few visitors who make the effort to visit this geographical anomaly are very welcome.
St. Pierre is the France you might find in a small seaside town in Brittany. It has good food in unpretentious restaurants, and no beautiful avenues. It doesn't exude excitement or sophistication. Its boxy, brightly painted buildings, much weathered by the salt air, are reminiscent of Newfoundland architecture, and most of the town looks down on fishing boats and sailing yachts moored in the small harbor. But it has a peace that's appealing isolation has allowed the St. Pierre residents to set their own pace, and it's not a fast one (except for traffic,cartier bracelet white cheap, which is sparse, but fierce). Activity is of the everyday kind, of people going about their business and children playing after school.
Discovered by the Portuguese in 1520, the islands were claimed for France by Jacques Cartier in 1536. Because of its good harbor and proximity to excellent cod regions, St. Pierre (the town and the island) became an important fishing port and a political football. As France and England battled at intervals through the centuries, St. Pierre's sovereignty was snatched back and forth with every new treaty, until at last the 1816 Treaty of Paris stuck.
For years, the islands had a one note economy as cod fishermen steadily tapped the wealth of the Grand Banks. But unimagined riches came to St. Pierre when America's Volstead Act in 1920 made liquor sales illegal in the United States. Canada's version of prohibition allowed liquor production for export only,cartier bracelet diamond price, and vast quantities were exported to convenient St. Pierre. Then it was shipped to the United States as many as 300,000 cases a month. Virtually every islander was involved in the traffic; one home was built entirely from discarded Cutty Sark cases.
The warm, moist air from the Grand Banks frequently creates fog in St. Pierre, and as a result most visitors arrive by sea from Fortune, Newfoundland, aboard one of two seagoing ferries.
Most accommodations several pensions and two hotels are within easy walking distance from the ferry. The largest, Hotel Robert, features a collection of Prohibition memorabilia, including the hat Al Capone left at the hotel. A stay there includes an orientation by owner Jean Paul Andrieux, who gives the islands' history plus sightseeing and duty free shopping tips. Silk scarves, French wine and perfume are good buys.
A stroll around town doesn't take long, but it will reveal a variety of shops, a stone fronted cathedral, a war monument, an interesting small Museum of St. Pierre,cartier bracelet diamond fake, and a soccer field alive with schoolboys. An hourlong island tour takes you through town and beyond, through the Savoyard, an area of vacation homes less than a mile from town. Stunted vegetation covers the low rolling hills, and rock cliffs jut out at the northern end of the island.
From there, you can see Miquelon. Only 600 people live on the larger, bleaker island of Miquelon, but they boast of their sunnier weather due to more favorable winds. A daylong excursion by ferry is available to visit it.
From the square in front of Miquelon's church, you can see both ends of the few tidy streets in the village. A drive over the peaty heath takes you to Langlade, which used to be a separate island until sand settling on dozens of shipwrecks eventually created an isthmus to join the two. A band of half wild horses roam at will and idly forage on the low vegetation. Bits of shipwrecks punctuate the long expanse of beach, and sea gulls wheel over the beaches when schools of small fish called caplins are spawning in the sand.
This tiny corner of France will not appeal to those who need cities with bright lights and glamour. Those who can accept St. Pierre on its own terms, taking the time to get to know it, will discover its special charm.
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