Destination articles

Sifnos – A Cycladic Gem in Greece

lubowitz

fnf

I had heard over the years that Sifnos was a beautiful and distinctive island while living in Syros, the administrative center of the Cycladic group of Islands (known in Greek as the Kyklades).

Sifnos, which is 24 nautical miles away and is part of the Cyclades chain's western arc, may be seen from Syros' southern tip. It was reported to possess a beautiful, dreamy quality.

So, for the four-hour journey to Sifnos, I boarded the lovely "Artemis" ferry, one of the company's smaller vessels.

On the west coast of the island, the charming port of Kamares is wonderful. One is stunned by the height of the rocky hills that provide a great amphitheatre impression as you enter the vast bay. Greek Orthodox monasteries are seen as a number of tiny, isolated white spots on the hilltops. It boasts a typical Cycladic landscape of arid rocky hills that meets a gorgeous white sand beach and the regal Aegean Sea.

Tourists like it, but I was headed for Apollonia, the nation's capital and the center of a cluster of towns all within two kilometers of each other (Artemonas, Kato Petali, Katavati, Exampelas, Ano Petali). The 20-minute bus ride to Apollonia over a narrow, winding road provided a preview of what the island's geography would have to offer.

The stark, rocky terrain rises up into the center, dotted with low-lying green outcrops of the widespread Skinos plant and the ubiquitous white and blue Cycladic cube homes.

Castle Kastro

The following day, I started my three-kilometer, one-hour walk to the Kastro (Castle), the island's main tourist destination, which is located on the island's east side. It offers breathtaking 360-degree views of the Aegean, with Paros and Ante Paros just discernible in the fog-shrouded horizon.

The historic town of Kastro, perched atop a cliff, previously served as the island's capital. It is a beautiful location with a maze of twisting streets and whitewashed homes protruding from the eastern tip of the island. It is still the most significant village from the Middle Ages in both the Cyclades and all of Greece.

In order to enjoy the breathtaking views of the spectacular royal blue Aegean before spotting the church below, it is recommended to enter the town by the side walk that circles the seaside.

Below Kastro, on a neck of land that juts out into the water by around 50 meters, is where you'll find the famous Church of the Seven Martyrs. Despite being modest, it is the island's most significant church and one of the Cyclades' most popular photo locations.

A full day should be dedicated to exploring this amazing settlement, with a lunch at one of the few delightful tavernas. In Kastro, a coffee or something a little stronger can be enjoyed in the upscale Dolci Cafe Restaurant perched on the western side of the village, offering panoramic views of the hinterland valleys.

Faros

It is good to take the bus from Apollonia (regular summertime hourly service) down to the charming beach town of Faros, which is about six kilometers distant in the southeast part of the island.

The community is animated by a small yachting marina dock, and there are two lovely beaches (linked by a road through a tiny headland with residences) with a number of tavernas and cafes. The tamarisk trees on both sides of the horseshoe-shaped bay provide shade for beachgoers.

Goddess Chrisopigi

A sign pointed the way to Chrisopigi, another well-known chapel situated on a narrow peninsula that jutted 100 meters into the water. One of the most stunning walks you could imagine in these magnificent islands is the hour-long stroll down the man-made trail that meanders almost two kilometers around the edge of the sea to Chrisopigi. This was an odd encounter at around 8 o'clock in the evening with the sun setting in the west.

Another well-known site on Sifnos is the Monastery of Panagia Chrisopigi, also known as the island's Protector Saint Chrisopgi. The monastery is situated on top of a cliff, practically on the sea, and was constructed over an ancient church. It is definitely worth going.

A haven for hikers

With 19 approved routes winding throughout the island, Sifnos has transformed into a hiking lover's heaven. The Information Offices provide free, in-depth maps that list 100 km of trails that range in length from one kilometer (20 minutes) to 15 kilometres (seven hours), all of which are extremely well signposted.

Trial Five, which begins in the neighboring village of Katavati, is the one I choose. It travels in a south-westerly direction and ends nine kilometers later on the opposite side of the island in the harbor of Vathi.

Leaving at 11 a.m. on a day that was predicted to be warm, I was unprepared for the length of the walk, especially in the heat of the day.

I was directed to the proper starting location by a pleasant young Belgian couple who were descending the mountain. They were surprised that I was making the walk alone and cautioned me to bring water and a hat, both of which I did. They had taken a different route to the Monastery of Profit Ilias, which appeared to be suspended in midair on a faraway mountain peak. They bid each other "good luck."

As you travel further from the town, the terrain gets more difficult and the track follows the slope of a large valley. Although the trails are sporadically marked with the friendly red and white signposts, it's simple to become sidetracked by the surroundings and wander off in the wrong direction.

Agios Efstathios (Agios meaning Saint) was in such a remote place that I could not comprehend who would utilize its holy facilities, much less keep its beautiful state; I would see many more. An hour into the hike, I managed to get lost and stumbled across the chapel. The Greeks appear to be deeply religious people.

The real mountain guy arrived farther up the valley along the way on his donkey and with another in toe. On such a difficult path, this was the only mode of transportation accessible. My water supply was dwindling as quickly as I was, and the steep track was beginning to take its toll. There was no longer much room for mistake in becoming lost again, so I found myself continuously searching for the reassuring indications.

The six-hour journey's middle two hours, which were up, up, and through a very unforgiving, rocky trail, were the hardest. I eventually made it to the mountain's summit and had my first glimpse of the western ocean.

The chilly air was an added source of relief. Although I still had a ways to go, knowing that the rest of the journey would be downhill to the sea gave me some psychological reassurance. I could make out the faint contour of the Milos and Kimolos islands in the southwest distance.

As the road turned back toward land in another valley, I lost sight of the sea. I came found an incredible artificial olive grove of about 20 trees along this stretch. The little, well-kept white house with no one inside was in a strange and remote location.

Maybe this was where the mountain guy and his two donkeys resided. I stopped for a 15-minute break to take in the tranquility of the surroundings and my final drop of water.

I first saw Vathi Bay about two kilometers below me in the distance an hour later; it was a warm and lovely sight.

Thus, I stumbled off the track and into the gorgeous beach at the northern end of the bay at around 5:00 p.m. (a superb, almost land-locked bay with a narrow entry passage). Numerous yachts were docked, and beachgoers were having fun. I doubt I've ever enjoyed a swim more, and the fnf mod cool Alpha beer at a bar on the sea has never tasted better.

I eventually left Vathi's peace on a bus back to Apollonia around six o'clock in the evening.

Regarding Sifnos

Sifnos is a medium-sized Greek island, measuring just 15 kilometers in length and 8 kilometers in width. Its highest point, where the Monastery of Profit Ilias is located, is 680 meters above sea level, and it has a year-round population of roughly 2,650 people.

The area is well-known for its hiking trails, several small workshops in the towns, and traditional ceramics. It is now the Western Cyclades' most visited location. In the summer, tourists are drawn to the island by its quaint villages, terraced landscape, old castles, Venetian dovecotes, and long sandy beaches.